day 6. second time’s a charm…


I have a new-found respect for surfers, even moreso now. We knew that today would be our day to start surfing the green waves, and EVERYONE was anxious/nervous. Our first session was at 9am, and began with everyone trying to paddle out to get past the huge greens into the “safe zone.” And holy crap did we ever take a beating. The “turtle roll” is a trick that we were taught in order to paddle out past the big waves. You stop paddling, jump vertically off of your board straight down into the water while flipping your board over and stabbing it through the wave, and only to come back up without any breath and trying to hop back on your board immediately so you can continue paddling fast. The problem arises though when you get out of the water, without any breath, and by the time you pull your ass back on your board you get hit by another huge wave that you have no time to turtle roll to get under. After 3 or 4 huge waves hit us, the rest of the group headed back to the shore in the “safety position” while Tenya and myself stayed with it, until we got beat up by 10 waves and decided to just head back to shore. However, on the last huge wave I got stuck under water in the strength of the wave, and after hitting my head on the bottom could not find air…I just couldnt make my way to the surface. Obviously, I did though, and was able to do my safety position all the way to shore…where I was pissed at myself immediately for being scared to death, and pissed for giving up. So about 3 minutes later, I opted to hop back in. I was not leaving without catching my first green wave, and knew I would regret not trying again. And despite another round of ass beating, I made it all the way out and I was the only person in our group who was able to stand up and surf a green wave back to shore.

The same thing happened at our afternoon surf session. First try out, I got rocked and when I couldn’t breath I came back in. But upon the 2nd try, I made it out to the safety zone, and ended up “catching” the biggest wave of the day. Kerianne told me to start paddling, but as soon as she realized how huge the wave was going to be she told me to get into the “safety position.” But with a wave that is at least 15 feet big, the safety position did not work. The wave broke right on top of me, spinning me under water and leaving me unable to breath again. However, I tried to stay relaxed, and when I popped back up I decided to give it another go and I paddled back out towards Kerianne. I paddled my ass off, my arms were killing, and I was not settling for a “safety position.” But 45 minutes after waiting, I caught a huge wave, and surfed it all the way back into the beach. And I got some great great pictures of it!

Although my rotator cuff is killing me, and my entire body looks like an abuse victim, I could totally see myself moving to Costa Rica. I love the food, the people, the Ocean, and just the chill way of life. The surf instructors here are all awesome, and are definitely people I could see myself hanging out with. I have never had more energy in my entire life, and all natural energy. There is something special about this place, and I am just so sad that I only have one more full day in Costa Rica…


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