Day 3.


Another amazing day!!! Had my first surf at 6am… which I must admit is intimidating because the beach is empty and the water is full of stingrays, sharks, etc. But it was a great surf, and the waves certainly beat the crap out of me. There is a storm brewing near Fuji (I think) which is going to only cause the waves to get bigger this week. Starting today I think we’re going to go even farther out to catch green waves, so I am ready for the real fun/ass-kicking to start. Anyways, after the early surf we had another breakfast and then had some time to relax before surf theory class. I went with a few of the girls on bikes into town, where we found out that nothing had opened yet. I’m hoping to get a really sweet hand-made bikini that will hold my tatas and bum in so that I can surf without fear of losing my bikini! Our second surf was yesterday at 2pm, and I had a great surf then too. I am doing great on my trimming and carving turns, and doing more maneuvers on the board and less shit-eating. After that surf, I excused myself while the others did yoga, and we went about 20 min away to this incredible incredible place for dinner. It was breathtaking! The entire restaurant is at the top of a mountain that overlooks the ocean. I am still full from the delicious fish, I think I am turning into a fish snob. 🙂 At least I passed on dessert though. I do not think there is any way that I could be burning off way more than I take in….because I have been taking in everything in sight!!! Well, off to surf again…Pura Vida!

Ohhh, and I saw a ton of howling monkeys yesterday… I might smuggle one home to scream at Smitty.


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